Buy broken rubble stabilization rubble for concrete fence (25kg) at Intergard?
Stabilization rubble broken concrete, for the stable placement of the concrete posts concrete fence.
This is how you place your concrete fence
Stabilization Processing
Stabilization is necessary to secure the posts in the ground:
1. For each starting post or corner post (90°), it is best to work with 3 bags of fast concrete (chemical composition of different products), as these posts can use extra stability.
2. For the intermediate posts you can use broken concrete, available in 25 kg bags from Intergard: mix 50 kg of this ecological and 100% recycled concrete with 8 to 10 kg of cement to a homogeneous mixture. This solution is 3 to 4 cheaper than quick concrete and more than strong enough to anchor our concrete posts.
Height determination
3. Place the first post in the ground at the desired location with the correct closing height. Then tip the stabilization into the hole around the post. Fix the post by tamping down well, eg with a wooden tamper.
4. At the end of the end wall, place a profile (= wooden straight beam) perpendicular to the ground and secure it with a brace support board.
5. With a pencil, draw a line on the first post at a height of 40 cm (measured from the bottom of the groove).
6. Transfer this height to the profile with a spirit level or laser. Attach a first cord at the level of the marked line. This way you can quickly and correctly place each bottom plate at the same height. Tip Measure under the first cord over the entire length for further placement. Check whether the bottom of the first slab is at least a few centimeters in the ground everywhere (certainly not above the foundation). If necessary, raise or lower the first cord.
Tip
Measure under the first cord over the entire length for further placement.
Check whether the underside of the first plate is at least a few
centimeters in the ground (certainly not above the foundation). Place if necessary
the first cord higher or lower.
Continuation of the placement
1. Now that the lower cord is tensioned at the correct height, fasten
you put a second cord on the post + profile. Do this at a height
equal to a multiple of 40 cm, eg 1.60 m or 2.00 m height.
2. The purpose of the second cord is to bring the posts to the correct height
places, but also to fix the posts sideways in a straight line
to put in the ground. Also check with this second cord whether the
plates in a straight line.
3. Dig a hole in front of it 2 meters from the groove of the previous post
the next pole. The depth of the hole can be determined directly
with the bottom cord.
eg. 95 cm slot posts = 40 cm slot + 55 cm base
Tip
With a very soft surface, it is best to put a stone or piece of vowel under it
the pole. This prevents it from sinking during installation.
4. Then place at ± 30 cm & 1.70 m - measured from the slot
towards the next post - a tile/clinker very firmly at ± 38 cm
under the bottom cord. This tile ensures that the plates that
you place on top of each other do not sink into the ground. Now can
the plates are placed on top of each other.
5. After placing 3 - 4 plates on top of each other, place the
next post diagonally into the hole. Then push him against
the plates. Aim this post along the sides
with the 2 cords and place it at the correct height with the
top cord.
6. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the end of the closure.
Tip
Hang the top cord at eye level in multiples of 40cm
(= height of first plate). Draw a pencil line on each side of the pole
at the same height as that of the top cord. This is how you put when placing
each pole at the same height. Only then fix the post with stabilization:
fill up to the bottom of the bottom plate with stabilization.
7. When the wall is placed 3 to 4 plates high, slide the
following plates (if any) along the top
of the post using a scaffold.
ATTENTION!
If necessary, remove the burr from the plates with
a shovel or grinding wheel.
Eliminate height differences
8. If the terrain is not level, the wall can
different heights (tiered). This
level difference is created by pressing one side of the bottom
plate to grind out the height of the stairs (e.g. 10 cm) about
a width of 4 cm. For example, the plate sinks 10 cm deeper than
the preceding element.
Tip
It is best to work with level differences of 10 cm or multiples thereof.
9. To make a staircase you grind - from the foregoing
element and on the side where the increase is to be made
- the desired height (eg 10 cm) from the bottom plate. So
can you put the pole higher than the previous pole. It
the next element is then automatically higher than the
previous element
Adjusting the plates (where necessary)
10. If you now look horizontally over the plates, it may be that the
plates do not line up nicely. In that case, place
a lever (e.g. wooden bridge on its high side) under a
element. This way you can push the whole thing up on the side
(as much as necessary). If necessary you can leave the element
bags: you do that by knock the stone down
on which the plates are placed.
Finishing: wedge and grout
11. To finish the whole thing, wedge the plates into the post with the
supplied adjusting wedges. Keying is done along one side (with
especially the rear).
12. Grout the plates with joint mortar. Then remove the adjusting wedges.
Also join the plates in the same longitudinal direction (horizontal) with
the same grout. Bumps, bumps and slightly damaged
plates/piles may occur. With joint mortar you can do this
Always update damage. After finishing and treatment with
resin (see next step), these damages are no longer visible.
With a motif on one side (= one-sided), only the motif side is
important. The rear is secondary.
resins
13. Has everything been completed and has the mortar cured sufficiently? Then bring
after ± 4-5 weeks, apply the resin/varnish layer according to the instructions.
14. Make sure the concrete material is dry and free of dust when you use it
starts to wax. When re-spraying, be sure to remove any
moss attack. The ideal processing temperature is 18 °C
(min. 12 °C): the plates should not feel really cold
15. The resin is ready to use, so you don't have to
dilute. Keep the resin frost-free and shake the
buses before use properly and completely.
16. Now you are ready to apply the resin. Best
You get the result with an electric sprayer (available
at Intergard) or with a compressor:
• It is recommended that the sprayers have a nozzle with
passage of 2.5 mm.
• If you use a compressor, it is best not to use
too much air pressure. Otherwise you will spray too much next to the
plates and you may have too little product.
Working with a porridge brush of ± 10 cm wide and short hairs is
also possible. In that case, shake the cans well and always pour
the entire canister empty into a bucket. Dip deep enough into the
product, otherwise you are working with foam or air. Bring
apply the resin in at least 2 layers (and sufficiently thick) and check
for any drips.
